Part 2

1ZZ-FE ENGINE MECHANICAL: ENGINE UNIT: DISASSEMBLY

DISASSEMBLY (Continued)

24. INSPECT CAMSHAFT TIMING GEAR ASSEMBLY





(a) Check the lock of the camshaft timing gear.
(1) Clamp the camshaft in a vise, then confirm that the camshaft timing gear is locked.

NOTE: Be careful not to damage the camshaft.

(b) Release the lock pin.
(1) Cover the 4 oil paths of the cam journal with vinyl tape as shown in the illustration.

HINT: Two advance side paths are provided in the groove of the camshaft. Plug one of the paths with a piece of rubber.

(2) Puncture the tape over the advance side path and retard side path on the opposite side of the groove.





(3) Apply air pressure to the two broken paths (the advance side path and retard side path) of about 150 kPa (1.5 kgf/cm2).

CAUTION: Cover the paths with a shop rag to avoid oil splashes.





(4) Confirm that the camshaft timing gear revolves in the timing advance direction when weakening the air pressure of the timing retard path.

HINT: The lock pin is released, and the camshaft timing gear revolves in the advance direction.

(5) When the camshaft timing gear comes to the most advanced position, release the air pressure of the timing retard side path, then release that of the timing advance side path.

CAUTION: The camshaft timing gear occasionally shifts to the retard side abruptly if the air compression of the advance side path is released before the retard side path. This often causes the breakage of the lock pin.

(c) Check the smooth revolution.
(1) Revolve the camshaft timing gear several times within the movable range except for the most retarded position and check that it turns smoothly.

CAUTION: Be sure to perform this check by hand, instead of using air pressure.

(d) Check that the lock is in the most retarded position.
(1) Confirm that the camshaft timing gear is locked in the most retarded position.
25. REMOVE CAMSHAFT TIMING GEAR ASSEMBLY





(a) Clamp the camshaft in a vise, then confirm that the camshaft timing gear is locked.

CAUTION: Be careful not to damage the camshaft.

(b) Cover the 4 oil paths of the cam journal with vinyl tape as shown in the illustration.

HINT: Two advance side paths are provided in the groove of the camshaft. Plug one of the paths with a piece of rubber.

(c) Puncture the tape over the advance side path and retard side path on the opposite side of the groove.





(d) Apply air pressure to the two broken paths (the advance side path and retard side path) of about 150 kPa (1.5 kgf/cm2).

CAUTION: Cover the paths with a shop rag to avoid oil splashes.





(e) Confirm that the camshaft timing gear revolves in the timing advance direction when weakening the air pressure of the timing retard path.

HINT: The lock pin is released, and the camshaft timing gear revolves in the advance direction.

(f) When the camshaft timing gear comes to the most advanced position, release the air pressure of the timing retard side path, then release that of the timing advance side path.

CAUTION: The camshaft timing gear occasionally shifts to the retard side abruptly if the air compression of the advance side path is released before the retard side path. This often causes the breakage of the lock pin.





(g) Remove the fringe bolt and camshaft timing gear.

- Be sure not to remove the other 4 bolts.
- When reusing the camshaft timing gear, release the straight pin locking first, then install the gear.

26. REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD SUB-ASSEMBLY





(a) Using several steps, uniformly loosen and remove the 10 cylinder head bolts with a bi-hexagon wrench 10 mm in the sequence shown in the illustration. Remove the 10 cylinder head bolts and 10 plate washers.

- Be careful not to drop the plate washers into the cylinder head.
- Head warpage or cracking could result from removing the bolts in the wrong order.





(b) Remove the cylinder head from the cylinder block.
27. REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD GASKET





(a) Remove the cylinder head gasket from the cylinder block.
28. REMOVE OIL FILTER SUB-ASSEMBLY





(a) Using SST, remove the oil filter.
SST: 09228-06501
29. REMOVE OIL FILTER UNION





(a) Using a socket hexagon wrench 12, remove the oil filter union.
30. REMOVE ENGINE REAR OIL SEAL





(a) Using a knife, cut off the oil seal lip.
(b) Using a screwdriver with its tip wrapped with tape, pry out the oil seal.

NOTE: After removing, check the crankshaft for damage. If damaged, smooth the surface with 400-grit sandpaper.

31. REMOVE OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG





(a) Remove the oil pan drain plug and gasket from the oil pan.
32. REMOVE OIL PAN SUB-ASSEMBLY





(a) Remove the 14 bolts and 2 nuts.





(b) Insert the blade of oil pan seal cutter between the bearing cap and oil pan, then cut off the applied sealer and remove the oil pan.

NOTE: Be careful not to damage the oil pan contact surface of the bearing cap and oil pan.

33. REMOVE OIL STRAINER SUB-ASSEMBLY





(a) Remove the bolt and 2 nuts, then remove the oil strainer.
34. REMOVE OIL STRAINER FLANGE GASKET





(a) Remove the gasket from the cylinder block.
35. REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK WATER DRAIN COCK SUB-ASSEMBLY





(a) Remove the cylinder block water drain cock from the cylinder block.
36. CHECK CONNECTING ROD THRUST CLEARANCE





(a) Using a dial indicator, measure the thrust clearance while moving the connecting rod back and forth.
Standard thrust clearance:
0.160 to 0.342 mm (0.0063 to 0.0135 in.)
Maximum thrust clearance:
0.342 mm (0.0135 in.)

- If the thrust clearance is greater than maximum, replace the connecting rod.
- If necessary, replace the crankshaft.

37. CHECK CONNECTING ROD OIL CLEARANCE

NOTE: Do not turn the crankshaft during the measurement.





(a) Using marking paint, write the matched cylinder number on each connecting rod and cap.

HINT: The matchmarks on the connecting rods and caps are for ensuring the correct reassembly.





(b) Using SST, remove the 2 bolts and connecting rod cap.
SST: 09205-16010
(c) Clean the crank pin and bearing.
(d) Check the crank pin and bearing for pitting and scratches.





(e) Lay a strip of the Plastigage across the crank pin.





(f) Check that the front mark of the connecting rod cap is facing in the correct direction.
(g) Apply a light coat of engine oil to the threads and under the heads of the connecting rod cap bolts.





(h) Using SST, tighten the bolts in several passes to the specified torque.
SST: 09205-16010
Torque: 20 Nm (204 kgf-cm, 15 ft-lbf)





(i) Mark the front of the connecting cap bolts with paint.
(j) Retighten the cap bolts by 90° as shown in the illustration.
(k) Check that the crankshaft turns smoothly.





(l) Remove the 2 bolts and connecting rod cap.
(m) Measure the Plastigage at its widest point.





Standard oil clearance:
0.028 to 0.060 mm (0.0011 to 0.0024 in.)
Maximum oil clearance:
0.080 mm (0.0032 in.)

NOTE: Remove the Plastigage completely after the measurement.

- If the oil clearance is greater than maximum, replace the connecting rod bearing.
- If necessary, grind or replace the crankshaft.





HINT:
- The TAIHO mark is either on the claw side or the opposite side.
- If replacing a bearing, select a new one with the same number as marked on the connecting rod bearing cap. There are 3 sizes of standard bearings, marked "1", "2" and "3" accordingly.





38. REMOVE CONNECTING ROD SUB-ASSEMBLY





(a) Using a ridge reamer, remove all carbon from the top of the cylinder.
(b) Push the piston, connecting rod assembly and upper bearing through the top of the cylinder block.

HINT:
- Keep the bearing, connecting rod and cap together.
- Arrange the piston and connecting rod assemblies in the correct order.

39. REMOVE CONNECTING ROD BEARING





(a) Remove the connecting rod bearing from the connecting rod cap.





(b) Remove the connecting rod bearing from the connecting rod.
40. REMOVE PISTON RING SET





(a) Using a piston ring expander, remove the 2 compression rings.
(b) Remove the 2 side rails and oil ring by hand.
41. REMOVE W/PIN PISTON SUB-ASSEMBLY





(a) Using a small screwdriver, pry out the 2 snap rings.





(b) Gradually heat the piston up to 80 to 90°C (176 to 194°F).





(c) Using a plastic hammer and brass bar, lightly tap out the piston pin, then remove the connecting rod.

- The piston and pin are a matched set.
- Arrange the piston, pin, ring, connecting rod and bearings in the correct order.

42. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT





(a) Remove the 10 bolts from the crankshaft bearing cap.





(b) Uniformly loosen the 10 bearing cap bolts in several passes in the sequence shown in the illustration.





(c) Using a screwdriver, remove the crankshaft bearing cap by prying the indicated portions between the cylinder block and crankshaft bearing cap.

NOTE: Be careful not to damage the contact surfaces of the cylinder block and crankshaft bearing cap.





(d) Remove the crankshaft from the cylinder block.
43. CHECK CRANKSHAFT THRUST CLEARANCE





(a) Using a dial indicator, measure the thrust clearance while prying the crankshaft back and forth with a screwdriver.
Standard thrust clearance:
0.04 to 0.24 mm (0.0016 to 0.0094 in.)
Maximum thrust clearance:
0.30 mm (0.0118 in.)

- If the thrust clearance is greater than maximum, measure the thrust washer thickness.
- If the thickness is not as specified, replace the thrust washer.

HINT: Thrust washer thickness: 2.430 to 2.480 mm (0.0957 to 0.0976 in.).

44. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT THRUST WASHER UPPER





(a) Remove the 2 crankshaft thrust washers from the cylinder block.
45. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT BEARING





(a) Remove the 5 crankshaft bearings from the cylinder block.

NOTE: Arrange the main bearings and thrust washers in the correct order.





(b) Remove the 5 crankshaft bearings from the bearing caps.

NOTE: Arrange the main bearings and thrust washers in the correct order.

46. REMOVE STUD BOLT
(a) Using "TORX" socket wrenches E5 and E7, remove the 9 stud bolts.