Engine - Pitching Stopper Bracket Repair
NUMBER: 12-95-06DATE: 11/16/06
APPLICABILITY:
2006MY B9 Tribeca
SUBJECT:
Pitching Stopper Bracket Repair
INTRODUCTION
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide the proper procedure for repairing a pitching stopper bracket that is loose and/or cracked. While this will not cause any performance issues with the vehicle, it will cause a creaking or popping noise under certain driving conditions.
TOOLS NEEDED
Right angle drill
9 mm center point drill bit
Center punch
Welding blankets
Access to a mig welder with an Argon-C02 shielding gas (75% Argon, 25% C02)
MATERIAL NEEDED
Note:
The following material listed is enough to perform 10 repairs.
^ Can of self etching spray primer, available at local auto parts/hardware store
^ Can of semi gloss black spray paint, available at local auto parts/hardware store
^ Nox Rust 7703 (12 oz aerosol can) Part # S0A868V9180 available through Genuine Subaru Chemical Program
REPAIR PROCEDURE/INFORMATION
CAUTION:
DUE TO THE NATURE OF THIS REPAIR, ALL WELDING SHOULD BE PERFORMED BY A "CERTIFIED" PROFESSIONAL WELDER.
Step 1: Record any pre-set radio stations. Disconnect the negative ground cable from the battery, remove the top engine cover, and remove the air box and intake hose.
Step 2: Disconnect all connectors from the top of the transmission area (3). Disconnect the clips that hold the harnesses to the firewall and reposition harnesses up and out of the way. Remove the ground wire from the firewall pitching stopper bracket and reinstall the 10 mm bolt. Bolt will be used for the welder grounding point. Remove the 10 mm bolt securing the A/C bracket to the firewall.
Step 3: Remove the pitching stopper and the bracket from the top of the transmission. Disconnect the vent hoses from the transmission and move the bracket to the side.
DO NOT DRILL ALL THE WAY THROUGH. YOU ARE NOT REMOVING THE BRACKET.
Step 4: Center punch and drill out the welds on the pitching stopper bracket indicated below using a 9 mm center point drill bit. The 8 welds that need to be drilled out are circled in red. The metal should be drilled out to the point the weld is removed only. Reposition the black sound deadening material away from the bracket.
Step 5: To protect surrounding surfaces and parts from the heat and weld splatter; the interior surfaces around the pitching stopper bracket should be well protected with a welding blanket. Attach the welder ground cable to the 10 mm bolt.
Step 6: A mig welder with an Argon-C02 shielding gas (75% Argon, 25% C02) should be used to re-weld the points previously drilled out on the pitching stopper bracket. Note: Use care not to bum through the panel when welding. Also, an additional small bead weld (1/2 inch - 3/4 inch) needs to be added to the LH and RH lower outside corners of the bracket. This is indicated in the picture below by the arrows. When finished, all welds must be inspected for quality and to ensure that there are no pinholes or burn-throughs. If any problems are found, weld must be drilled out again and process repeated.
Step 7: The welds should be ground down and cleaned using a die grinder and/or file. ADA Sander or similar items should also be used to prep the welds for painting. Special care must be taken on the uppermost welds, as they will be visible even afier the top engine covet; air box and intake hose have been re-installed. After removing any additional weld splatter, the area should then be cleaned, primed with a self etching primer and painted. Spray under the bracket to assist in rust prevention in non-visible areas with the Nox Rust 7703.
Re-install all removed parts, reconnect the battery cable, and reset the radio stations. Road test the vehicle and verify that the noise is eliminated.
WARRANTY/CLAIM INFORMATION
For vehicles under the Basic New Car Limited Warranty period, this repair may be claimed using one of the tables shown.
Disclaimer