Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Starter System Circuit TroubleshootingNOTE:
- Air temperature must be between 59 and 100 °F (15 and 38 °C) during this procedure.
- After the inspection, you must reset the powertrain control module (PCM). Otherwise, the PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating.
- The 12 V battery must be in good condition and fully charged.
1. Hook up the following equipment:
2. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC).
3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the PCM. If it doesn't communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit.
5. Select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
6. Turn the IMA battery module switch OFF.
7. Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in N or P, turn the ignition switch to START (III).
Does the starter crank the engine normally?
YES - The starting system is OK. Go to step 28.
NO - Go to step 8.
8. Check the 12 V battery condition. Check electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try starting the engine again.
Does the starter crank the engine?
YES - Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 28.
NO - Based on the following symptoms, take the appropriate action:
- If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to step 9.
- If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 26.
- If the starter does not disengage from the flywheel ring gear when you release the key, replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following:
- Starter solenoid and switch malfunction
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch
9. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
10. Remove the intake air duct.
11. Make sure the shift lever is in N or P, and set the parking brake, then disconnect the BLK/WHT harness connector (A) from the starter solenoid S terminal (B). Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid terminal.
Does the starter crank the engine?
YES - Go to step 12.
NO - Remove the starter, and repair or replace it as necessary.
12. Check the No. 23 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Is the fuse OK?
YES - Reinstall the No. 23 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Go to step 13.
NO - Replace the fuse. If the fuse continues to blow, locate and repair the short in the circuit between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the PCM.
13. Remove the starter cut relay from the under-dash fuse/relay box, and test it.
Is the relay OK?
YES - Go to step 14.
NO - Replace the starter cut relay.
14. Check the ignition switch.
Is the ignition switch OK?
YES - Go to step 15.
NO - Replace the ignition switch.
15. Measure the voltage between starter cut relay 4P socket terminal No. 2 and body ground with the ignition switch in START (III).
Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to step 16.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch. If the wire is OK, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.
16. Check for continuity between starter cut relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter.
NO - Go to step 17.
17. Connect the BLK/WHT harness connector to the starter solenoid S terminal.
18. Connect the starter cut relay 4P socket terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with a jumper wire, and turn the ignition switch to START (III).
Does the starter crank the engine?
YES - Go to step 19.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter.
19. Remove the jumper wire.
20. Measure the voltage between starter cut relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and body ground with the ignition switch turned to START (III).
Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to step 21.
NO - Replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.
21. Reinstall the starter cut relay.
22. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
NOTE: This must be done to protect the PCM from damage.
23. Disconnect PCM connector A (44P).
24. Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminal A12 and body ground with the ignition switch turned to START (III).
Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to step 25.
NO - Repair open in the WHT wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the PCM. If the wire is OK, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.
25. Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminal A7 and body ground with the ignition switch turned to START (III).
Is there battery voltage?
YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
NO - Check for open in the wire(s) between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the PCM.
26. While cranking the engine, check the cranking voltage and current draw.
Is the cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.5 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 350 A?
YES - Go to step 27.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for these problems:
- Drag in the starter armature
- Shorted armature winding
- Excessive drag in the engine
- Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in the starter brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
- Faulty overrunning clutch
27. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and flywheel ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
28. Select PCM reset to cancel ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
29. Turn the IMA battery module switch ON.
30. If the IMA battery level gauge (BAT) displays no segment, start the engine, and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in N or P) until the BAT displays at least three segments.
31. Do the start clutch pressure control calibration procedures.