Body - Creaking/Popping on Acceleration/Deceleration
03-058September 23, 2003
Applies To:
2003 Accord - See VEHICLES AFFECTED
Creaking or Popping When Accelerating and Decelerating
SYMPTOM
A creaking or popping when accelerating and decelerating.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Body panels are rubbing against each other at the front of the floor tunnel.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Add two welds so the body panels do not rub against each other.
PARTS INFORMATION
REQUIRED MATERIALS
3M UltraPro Auto Sealant (clear) (5 oz. tube):
3M P/N 051135-08302
(One tube repairs about five vehicles.)
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty:
The normal warranty applies.
Operation Number: 812004
Flat Rate Time: 1.5 hours
Failed Part: P/N 65100-SDA-A10ZZ
H/C 7141005
Defect Code: 042
Contention Code: B07
Template ID: 03-055A (L4 models)
03-055B (V6 models)
Skill Level: Repair Technician
Out of warranty:
Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
1. Check with your customer to find out if this noise happens just once when driving the vehicle after it has been sitting for a while.
^ If this is the case, your customer may be hearing the ABS self-check. Refer to the article "ABS Grunt When Doing a Self-Check" in the November 2002 issue of ServiceNews. The self-check for the 2003 Accord V6 is particularly noticeable and could easily be mistaken for a body creak or pop. Return the vehicle to your customer, and explain the reason for the noise.
^ If this is noise happens under various conditions, go to step 2.
2. Park the vehicle on an incline. Make sure the parking brake is fully set.
3. Start the engine. For A/T models, shift into Drive, and lightly tap the accelerator; for M/T models, press the clutch pedal, shift into 1st gear, slowly release the clutch pedal, and lightly tap the accelerator.
^ If you hear a creak or pop each time you tap the accelerator, go to step 4.
^ If you do not hear a creak or pop, disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting procedures.
4. Raise the vehicle on a lift.
5. Loosen the left rear bolt on the subframe.
6. Lower the vehicle.
7. Park the vehicle on an incline. Make sure the parking brake is fully set.
8. Start the engine. For A/T models, shift into Drive, and lightly tap the accelerator; for M/T models, press the clutch pedal, shift into 1st gear, slowly release the clutch pedal, and lightly tap the accelerator.
^ If you do not hear a creak or pop, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE.
^ If you hear a creak or pop, disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting. Make sure you retorque the subframe bolt to 103 N.m (76 lb-ft).
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
This procedure should be done only by a professional welder or by a reputable body shop.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the radio and navigation system (if applicable), then write down your customer's radio station presets.
2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
3. Remove the driver's center lower cover (one screw, one clip) from the dashboard.
4. Remove the passenger's center lower cover (one clip) from the dashboard.
5. Pull back the carpet and sound deadener mat from the side of the floor tunnel. Insert a large, deep socket (24 mm or larger) under the sound deadener mat, past the second body seam. Repeat this step for the other side of the floor tunnel.
6. Raise the vehicle on a lift.
7. Torque the subframe bolt you loosened in DIAGNOSIS to 103 N.m (76 lb-ft)
8. L4 models only: Remove the secondary heated oxygen sensor from the catalytic converter. Unclip the wire harness from the exhaust heat shield (two clips).
9. Remove the catalytic converter (six self-locking nuts, three nuts per flange). Discard the self-locking nuts and the two gaskets.
10. Remove the exhaust heat shield (four bolts).
11. Remove all sealer and paint from the wall of the floor tunnel in the area shown. Do this on both walls of the floor tunnel.
12. Make sure the shift cabling is protected and out of the way of the weld area.
NOTICE
To avoid overheating the sound deadener mat, this step should be done only by a professional welder and with someone carefully watching the floor tunnel area inside the vehicle while the welding is taking place.
13. Make an 8-to-10-mm-long MIG weld halfway up the wall of the floor tunnel on the forward body seam. Do this on both walls of the floor tunnel.
14. Grind down the welds as needed.
15. Clean the welded areas, then prime and paint them. Apply sealant over the newly painted areas.
16. Reinstall the exhaust heat shield.
17. Reinstall the catalytic converter with new gaskets and self-locking nuts. Torque the nuts to 33 N.m (25 lb-ft) in the sequence shown.
18. L4 models only: Reinstall the secondary heated oxygen sensor. Clip the wire harness into the heat shield.
19. Lower the vehicle.
20. Remove the sockets. Check the area on each side of the floor tunnel inside the vehicle. Clean the area, and touch it up if needed. Then lay down the sound deadener mat and the carpet.
NOTE:
After you remove the socket, make sure the A/C drain hose on the passenger side is in the correct position and free from kinks . A kinked A/C drain hose could cause water damage to the ECM/PCM.
21. Reinstall the driver's and passenger's center lower covers.
22. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery.
23. Enter the anti-theft code for the radio and for the navigation system (if equipped). Enter your customer's radio station presets. Set the clock.
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