Starter Inspection

NOTE:
- Air temperature must be between 59 ° and 100 °F (15 ° and 38 °C) during this procedure.
- After this test, or any subsequent repair, reset the PCM to clear any codes.

Recommended Procedure:
- Use a starter system tester.
- Connect and operate the equipment in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Alternate Procedure




1. Hook up the following equipment:

- Ammeter, 0 - 400 A
- Voltmeter, 0 - 20 V (accurate within 0.1 volt)
- Tachometer, 0 - 1200 rpm

2. Remove the No.46 (15 A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box.
3. With the shift lever in [N] or [P], turn the ignition switch to start (III).

Did the starter crank the engine normally?

YES-The starting system is OK.

NO- If the starter won't crank at all, go to step 4. If it cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 7. If it won't disengage from the torque converter ring gear when you release the key, check for the following until you find the cause.

- Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch.

4. Check the battery condition. Check electrical connections at the battery and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then check the starter again.

Did the starter crank the engine?

YES-The starting system is OK.

NO-Go to step 5.




5. Make sure the transmission is in neutral, then disconnect the BLK/WHT wire (A) from the starter solenoid (B). Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid terminal.

Did the starter crank the engine?

YES-Go to step 6.

NO-Remove the starter and diagnose its internal problems.

6. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit.

- Check the BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the starter cut relay and the ignition switch, and between the starter cut relay and the starter.
- Check the ignition switch.
- Check the A/T gear position switch and connector.

7. Check engine speed during cranking.

Is engine speed above 100 rpm?

YES-Go to step 8.

NO-Remove and disassemble the starter, and check for the following until you find the cause.

- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in commutator brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical spline or drive gear
- Faulty drive gear clutch

8. Check the cranking voltage and current draw.

Is cranking voltage no less than 8.5 volts, and current draw no more than 380 amps?

YES-Go to step9.

NO-Remove and disassemble the starter, and check for the following until you find the cause.

- Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
- Starter armature dragging
- Shorted armature winding
- Excessive drag in engine

9. Remove the starter and inspect its drive gear and the torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.

Starter Solenoid Test




1. Check the hold-in coil for continuity between the S terminal (A) and the armature housing (ground). There should be continuity.

- If there is continuity, go to step 2.
- If there is no continuity, replace the solenoid.

2. Check the pull-in coil for continuity between the S and M terminals (B). There should be continuity.

- If there is continuity, the solenoid is OK.
- If there is no continuity, replace the solenoid.




1. Remove the starter.
2. Disassemble the starter as shown.

Armature Inspection and Test




3. Inspect the armature for wear or damage due to contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature.




4. Check commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface with emery cloth or a lathe within the following specifications, or recondition with # 500 or # 600 sandpaper (B).




5. Check the commutator diameter. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature.

Commutator Diameter
Standard (New): 28.0 - 28.1 mm (1.102 - 1.106 in.)
Service Limit: 27.5 mm (1.083 in.)




6. Measure the commutator runout.

- If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments.
- If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature.

Commutator Runout
Standard (New): 0.02 mm (0.001 in.) max.
Service Limit: 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)




7. Check the mica depth (A). If the mica is too high (B), undercut the mica with a hacksaw blade to the proper depth. Cut away all the mica (C) between the commutator segments. The undercut should not be too shallow, too narrow, or V-shaped (D).

Commutator Mica Depth
Standard (New): 0.4 - 0.5 mm (0.016 - 0.020 in.)
Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)




8. Check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If an open circuit exists between any segments, replace the armature.




9. Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B). Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature core. If the blade is attracted to the core or vibrates while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature.




10. Check with an ohmmeter that no continuity exists between the commutator (A) and armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and armature shaft (C). If continuity exists, replace the armature.

Starter Brush Inspection




11. Measure the brush length. If it is not within the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly.

Brush Length
Standard (New): 15.8 - 16.2 mm (0.62 - 0.64 in.)
Service Limit: 11.0 mm (0.43 in.)

Starter Brush Holder Test




12. Check that there is no continuity between the (+) brush holder (A) and (-) brush holder (B). If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly.




13. Insert the brush (A) into the brush holder, and bring the brush into contact with the commutator, then attach a spring scale (B) to the spring (C). Measure the spring tension at the moment the spring lifts off the brush.

Spring Tension:
15.7 - 17.7 N (1.6 - 1.8 kgf, 3.53 - 3.97 lbf)




14. Pry back each brush spring with a screwdriver, then position the brush about halfway out of its holder, and release the spring to hold it there.

Installation Of Brush Housing Onto The Armature:

15. Install the armature in the housing. Next, pry back each brush spring again, and push the brush down until it seats against the commutator, then release the spring against the end of the brush.

NOTE: To seat new brushes, slip a strip of # 500 or # 600 sandpaper, with the grit side up, between the commutator and each brush, and smoothly rotate the armature. The contact surface of the brushes will be sanded to the same contour as the commutator.




16. Install the starter end cover (A) to retain the brush holder (B).

Overrunning Clutch Inspection

17. Slide the overrunning clutch along the shaft. Replace it if it does not slide smoothly.




18. Rotate the overrunning clutch (A) both ways. If it does not lock in either direction or it locks in both directions, replace it.
19. If the starter drive gear (B) is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly; the gear is not available separately.

Check the condition of the torque converter ring gear if the starter drive gear teeth are damaged.

20. Reassemble the starter in reverse order of disassembly.