Operation CHARM: Car repair manuals for everyone.
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With Zetec

Engine





Assembly

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the cylinder liner.

Preparatory operations.
2. Remove the carbon deposits at the upper edge of the cylinder.
3. Using a scraper and sealant remover, clean all re-usable parts and check them for damage.
4. Thoroughly clean all threaded bores.
5. Available sizes of main bearing shell.

NOTE: The main bearing shells are color coded.
^ Size A: 2.145 - 2.152 mm (green)
^ Size B: 2.142 - 2.147 mm (brown)
^ Size C: 2.135 - 2.142 mm (brown)
^ Size D: 2.130 - 2.137 mm (brown)

6. NOTE: Use main bearing shells of size "B" or "C" (refer to the previous step).

Measure the radial clearance of the crankshaft.
^ Select a bearing shell in accordance with the previous step to determine bearing clearance of 0.020 - 0.040 mm
7. Measure the axial clearance of the crankshaft.
8. Measure the radial clearance of the camshaft.
9. Measure the axial clearance of the camshaft.
10. Measure the crankshaft.
11. Measure the camshaft.
12. Measure the cylinder bore.
13. Measure the pistons.
14. Measure the piston ring gaps.
15. Measure the axial play of the piston rings.
16. Check the cylinder head distortion.
17. Install the crankshaft.
^ Lay the main bearing shells clean and free of oil into the cylinder block and into the bearing caps.
^ Coat the inner side of the bearing shells with engine oil.
1. Lay the crankshaft in place.

NOTE: Do not tighten the main bearing cap bolts yet.





2. Attach the main bearing caps.

18. NOTE: The connecting rods are numbered starting at the timing belt end. The joined valve recesses on the piston crown face the intake side.

Install the pistons.
^ Coat the pistons and cylinder liners with engine oil.
^ Distribute the piston ring gaps and the elements of the oil scraper ring evenly around the circumference (120 degrees).
^ Compress the piston rings using a piston ring compressor.
^ Press pistons 1 and 4 with the handle of a hammer into the cylinders. The connecting rod bearing journals for cylinders 1 and 4 must be at BDC.
^ Lay the corresponding bearing shells clean and free of oil into the connecting rod and the connecting rod bearing cap.
^ Coat the inner side of the bearing shells with engine oil.

NOTE: Use new connecting rod bearing cap bolts.
NOTE: Do not tighten the connecting rod bearing cap bolts yet.





^ Attach the bearing caps.
^ Rotate the crankshaft through 180 degrees and insert pistons 2 and 3.
^ Lay the corresponding bearing shells clean and free of oil into the connecting rod and the connecting rod bearing cap.
^ Coat the inner side of the bearing shells with engine oil.

19. NOTE: The crankshaft must turn freely, if necessary check and adjust the bearing clearances.

Tighten down the main bearings and connecting rod bearings.
1. Tighten the main bearing bolts in two stages.
^ Stage 1: 25 Nm
^ Stage 2: 60 degrees





2. Tighten the connecting rod bearing bolts in two stages.
^ Stage 1: 35 Nm
^ Stage 2: 90 degrees
20. Install the rear oil seal carrier and the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor with its bracket.
^ Position a new oil seal carrier with a new seal in installation position and tighten the bolts finger tight.
1. Align the oil seal carrier so that the mating face of the oil seal carrier is between 0.3 and 0.8 mm below the cylinder block.
2. Tighten the bolts.





3. Install the CKP sensor bracket.





21. NOTE: Use three flywheel bolts.

Using special tool, draw in the oil seal.





22. Align the oil pump.
^ Position the oil pump with a new gasket and tighten the bolts finger tight.
^ Align the oil pump on both sides so that the sealing surfaces are 0.3 - 0.8 mm below the cylinder block.





23. Install the oil pump with a new crankshaft front oil seal.
^ Tighten the bolts and check the alignment as described in the previous step, correct as necessary

24. NOTE: The lower crankcase must be tightened to the specified torque within 10 minutes of applying the sealant.

Align the lower crankcase.
^ Coat the joins between the cylinder block and the oil pump/oil seal carrier with sealant.
^ Position the lower crankcase with a new gasket and tighten the bolts finger tight.

NOTE: If the permissible amounts for protrusions and/or gaps are exceeded, fit spacer shims as described in the next step.





^ Align the lower crankcase using a steel straight edge so that the cylinder block and the lower crankcase are level, or at least do not exceed the following tolerances:
^ MTX 75 manual transaxle: 0.10 mm protrusion to 0.25 mm gap.
^ FN automatic transaxle: 0.00 mm to 0.25 mm gap.





25. Install lower crankcase spacer washers as necessary.
^ With a gap of 0.26 - 0.50 mm, fit 0.25 mm spacer washers.
^ With a gap of 0.51 - 0.75 mm, fit 0.50 mm spacer washers.





26. Attach the lower crankcase and the oil intake pipe using a new gasket.
1. Tighten the bolts and check the alignment as described in the previous step, correct as necessary.
2. Oil intake pipe bolts

27. CAUTION: Use studs. Sealant in the dead end bores can cause damage to the ladder frame.





Install 10 studs, M6 x 20, in the shown dead end bores.
28. Clean off any residues of oil or oil sludge from the oil pan.

29. NOTE: The sealing surfaces must be free of oil and sealant residue.

NOTE: Attach the oil pan within 10 minutes of applying the sealant.





Apply a 3 mm bead of sealant to the oil pan flange.

30. NOTE: Do not remove the oil pan, after the first contact with the ladder frame.

NOTE: Tightening sequence.





Attach the oil pan and tighten the bolts in two stages.
^ Stage 1: 6 Nm
^ Stage 2: 10 Nm

31. NOTE: Use new bolts.

NOTE: Remove any residual thread-locking compound from the threaded bores.





Install the flywheel.
^ Attach the special tool and tighten the bolts.

32. NOTE: Apply high-temperature grease thinly enough to make sure that no grease emerges from the splines when the clutch disc is slid onto the transmission input shaft.

Evenly coat the splines of the clutch disc with high-temperature grease.

33. NOTE: Center the clutch disk on the pressure orate.





Install the clutch.
1. Position the clutch pressure plate with the centered clutch disc.
2. Working diagonally in several stages, tighten the bolts one turn at a time.
3. Check the centering and correct as necessary.
^ Detach the special tool.





34. Make two guide studs as shown.





35. Lay a new cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block.
1. Lay a new cylinder head gasket in place.
2. Screw in the guide studs made in the previous step.
3. Check that the alignment dowels are correctly seated.
36. Put the cylinder head in place.
^ Hook the cylinder head into the workshop hoist by the engine lifting eyes and move it into position.

37. CAUTION: Do not re-tighten the cylinder head bolts.

NOTE: Screw in the cylinder head bolts free of oil.

NOTE: Tighten the cylinder head bolts in three stages in the indicated sequence.





Attach the cylinder head.
^ Stage 1: 20 Nm
^ Stage 2: 40 Nm
^ Stage 3: 90 degrees
38. Lubricate the valve tappets with engine oil and fit them in the correct order.

39. NOTE: The identification numbers are located on the outside of the camshaft bearing caps.





Apply a thin coat of gasket maker to the marked areas on camshaft bearing caps 0 and 5.
40. Turn the crankshaft to approximately 60 degrees BTDC.

41. NOTE: Lay the camshafts in place with none of the cams at full lift.





Coat the camshafts and camshaft bearing cans with engine oil and insert them.

42. NOTE: Working in several stages, evenly screw in the camshaft bearing cap bolts in the indicated sequence, half a turn at a time, and then tighten them down in two stages.





Tighten the camshaft bearing caps.
^ Stage 1: 10 Nm
^ Stage 2: 19 Nm





43. Install the camshaft oil seals.
^ Lubricate the camshaft and the seal lip of the oil seal with engine oil.
^ Draw in the new oil seals using the special tool, a washer and a M10 x 70 bolt.





44. Turn the crankshaft to TDC on cylinder number 1.

45. NOTE: Cylinders 1 and 4 are at TDC when the Woodruff key points towards the piston.





Remove the blanking plug and align the crankshaft at TDC using the special tool.





46. Turn the camshafts to ignition point on cylinder number 1 and insert the special tool into the camshafts.

47. NOTE: Do not tighten the bolts. It must be possible to turn the timing pulleys on the camshafts.

Slide the timing pulleys onto the camshafts and screw in the bolts.





48. Install a new gasket into the water pump.
1. Lay the gasket in place.
2. Secure the gasket by bending over the tabs.

49. CAUTION: Do not kink the timing belt (do not bend the timing belt less than a diameter of 35 mm).

CAUTION: Do not rotate the crankshaft; as necessary check that it is still resting against the timing pin.

NOTE: The lug of the timing belt tensioner must not be hooked into the sheet metal cover during timing belt installation.





Position a new timing belt in place.
1. Slide the crankshaft timing pulley with a thrust washer onto the crankshaft.
2. Attach the water pump.
3. Attach the upper idler pulley.
4. Starting from the crankshaft timing belt pulley and working counterclockwise, position the timing belt in place while keeping it under tension.
5. Attach the timing belt tensioner and screw in the bolt five turns.

50. CAUTION: Incorrect timing belt tension will cause incorrect valve timing.





Pre tension the timing belt.
1. Rotate the tensioner locating tab counterclockwise and insert the locating tab into the slot in the rear timing cover.
2. Position the hex key slot in the tensioner adjusting washer to the 4 o'clock position.
3. Tighten the attaching bold enough to seat the tensioner firmly against the rear timing cover, but still allow the tensioner adjusting washer to be rotated using a 6 mm hex key.

51. CAUTION: Tension the timing belt, working counterclockwise.





Using the hex key, rotate the adjusting washer counterclockwise until the notch in the pointer is centered over the index line on the locating tab (the pointer will move clockwise during adjustment.





52. While holding the adjusting washer in position, tighten the bolt.

53. CAUTION: Do not tighten against Special Tool 303-65.

NOTE: Use the special tool to hold the timing pulleys.





Tighten the bolts on the timing pulleys.
54. Unscrew and remove Special Tool 303-574.
55. Take Special Tool 303 465 off the camshafts.

56. NOTE: Turn the engine two turns in the normal direction of rotation by the crankshaft.

Check the valve timing by inserting the special tools and correct the alignment as necessary.
^ Screw in Special Tool 303-574 and make sure that the crankshaft is resting against the special tool.
^ Insert Special Tool 303-465 into the camshafts. If necessary loosen the timing pulleys and correct the camshaft alignment.
^ Detach the special tools.





57. Install the blanking plug.

58. CAUTION: Use a blunt object (a plastic cable tie) to apply the silicone grease to avoid damaging the spark plug connectors.

CAUTION: Push on the spark plug connectors, keeping them in line with the spark plugs.

NOTE: Coat the inside of the spark plug connector to a depth of 5 - 10 mm with silicone grease.





Install the cylinder head cover and the spark plugs.
1. Screw in the spark plugs.
2. Tighten the cylinder head cover bolts in two stages.
^ Stage 1: 2 Nm
^ Stage : 78 Nm
^ Push on the spark plug connectors until they click in place

59. NOTE: Check the seating of the gasket on the upper timing belt cover and correct as necessary.





Attach the timing belt covers and the belt pulleys.
1. Lower timing belt cover
2. Crankshaft pulley/vibration damper
3. Upper timing belt cover
4. Center timing belt cover/front engine mounting bracket
5. Drive belt idler pulley
6. Water pump belt pulley





60. Connect the positive crankcase ventilation using a new seal.
1. Three bolts
2. One bolt





61. Attach the ancillary components on the exhaust side.
1. Bracket for air conditioning compressor.
2. Bracket for power steering pump to cylinder head.
3. Bracket for power steering pump to cylinder block.
62. Hook the engine by the engine lifting eyes onto the workshop hoist and detach it from the assembly stand. Put the engine down onto the assembly stand and leave it hooked onto the workshop hoist.

63. NOTE: Coat the oil filter seal with engine oil.





Attach the ancillary components on the intake side.
1. Oil pressure switch
2. KS
3. Attach a new oil filter.
4. Generator bracket to cylinder block
5. Generator bracket to cylinder head





64. Attach the intake manifold.
^ Screw in five bolts and fit two nuts.





65. Attach the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head using the alignment spacers with the two outside bolts and a new manifold gasket.

66. CAUTION: Do not allow debris to fall into the exhaust manifold.

CAUTION: Always follow the correct installation sequence for the catalytic converter in order to prevent damage.

CAUTION: Examine the seats and threads in the exhaust catalyst cone and EGR valve. Clean as required.





Loosen the bracket for the catalytic converter so that it can move freely.

67. NOTE: Use a new gasket.

NOTE: Do not fully tighten the nuts/bolts at this stage.





Position the catalytic converter on the exhaust manifold using new hardware.
68. Raise and support the vehicle.





69. Using a nut and bolt, temporarily secure the catalytic converter to the bracket at the rear.





70. Tighten the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold.

71. NOTE: Always use a new catalyst to EGR valve pipe assembly.

NOTE: Loosely assemble the pipe to both the EGR valve and the exhaust catalyst before tightening the unions.





Attach the catalytic converter.
1. Tighten the bolts on the catalytic converter bracket .
2. Install a new EGR-pipe.
3. Attach the heat shield.





72. Attach the bracket for the catalytic converter.
^ Tighten the bolts.
^ Remove the temporary bolt from the rear catalytic converter bracket.





73. Attach the generator.
1. Screw in and tighten the bolt.
2. Tighten the bolt.
3. Connect the positive cable.





74. Connect the multiplug to the oil pressure switch and the KS.